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Three days across Lisbon's seven hills: the old lanes of Alfama and its castle, the monuments and custard tarts of Belém, and a day trip to the fairytale palaces of Sintra. Best from April to June and September to October, when it is warm but not packed. Wear flat shoes: the cobbles are steep and slippery.
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Day by day
Alfama, the castle and a fado evening
Castelo de São Jorge
A hilltop castle with ramparts and some of the best views over Lisbon's rooftops and the Tagus river. Arriving at opening time means cooler weather and fewer tour groups.
View on map ↗Lisbon Cathedral and the lanes of Alfama
Walk down past the Romanesque Sé cathedral into Alfama, the oldest district, a maze of washing lines, tiled houses and tiny squares. Getting lost here is part of the point.
View on map ↗Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol
Two neighbouring viewpoints with blue-and-white tile panels, bougainvillea and a classic red-roof view down to the river. A good place for a coffee break.
View on map ↗Fado dinner in Alfama
Fado is Lisbon's melancholic folk music, performed in small restaurants and bars. Book a table in advance, expect a set of songs during dinner, and keep conversation quiet while the singer performs.
View on map ↗🍽 Where to eat
Belém: monuments and custard tarts
Jerónimos Monastery
A masterpiece of Manueline architecture with a carved cloister, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Entry to the church is usually quicker than the cloister queue, so check both.
View on map ↗Pastéis de Belém
The original home of the famous custard tart, baked here since 1837. The take-away queue moves faster than it looks, and the tarts taste best warm with cinnamon and icing sugar.
View on map ↗Belém Tower and the Monument to the Discoveries
A fortified tower on the riverbank and a huge monument shaped like a ship's prow. Walking around the outside is free; going up the tower has a small fee and a queue.
View on map ↗MAAT, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology
A modern riverside museum whose curved roof can be walked on. Even if you skip the exhibitions, the roof is a relaxed place to watch the river and the 25 de Abril Bridge.
View on map ↗Time Out Market
A big food hall with stalls from well-known local chefs and traditional favourites. It is busy but convenient for a group that wants different dishes.
View on map ↗🍽 Where to eat
Day trip to Sintra
Train from Rossio to Sintra
Trains leave Rossio station every 15-20 minutes and take about 40 minutes. Start early: the palaces get crowded by late morning.
View on map ↗Pena Palace
A candy-coloured palace perched on a hilltop, mixing Romantic and Moorish styles. The grounds are large, so allow time for the park and the viewing terrace.
View on map ↗Lunch in Sintra town
Sintra's old town has small restaurants and the local sweet travesseiros. It is a good place to refuel before the afternoon.
View on map ↗Quinta da Regaleira
A mansion with gardens, grottoes and the spiral Initiation Well. Exploring the tunnels is the highlight, so bring good shoes and be ready for dim lighting.
View on map ↗Sunset at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Back in Lisbon, finish at one of the city's best sunset viewpoints, with the castle and the river in view. Locals bring a drink and sit on the wall.
View on map ↗🍽 Where to eat
Good to know
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Photos: Travel Photographer, Farnaz Kohankhaki, Tiago Chaves, Efrem Efre on Pexels.


